A Complete Guide To Tree Trimming & Pruning

Why is Tree Pruning Important?

Tree pruning isn’t just about keeping your garden neat – it plays a vital role in the health, safety and longevity of your trees. 

Here’s why regular pruning matters:

• Encourages Healthy Growth: Removes dead, diseased or damaged branches, allowing trees to allocate resources effectively.
• Prevents Hazards: Reduces the risk of falling branches, protecting people, property and the tree itself.
• Enhances Appearance: Shapes trees for aesthetic appeal, boosting your garden’s overall look.
• Supports Structural Integrity: Corrects weak or crossing branches to ensure a strong, balanced framework.
• Promotes Fruit and Flower Production: For fruiting and flowering trees, pruning enhances yield and quality.

Expert Tip: Pruning also encourages the tree to grow “wound wood,” a protective growth that seals the cut around the limb and prevents rot. Improper cuts can hinder this natural healing process.

When Should You Prune Your Trees?

Timing is crucial when it comes to tree pruning. Prune at the wrong time, and you could harm the tree’s health or stunt its growth. 

Here’s what you need to know:

Best Time of Year to Prune Trees

Most trees are best pruned during their dormant season, typically late winter or early spring before new growth begins. This minimises stress and encourages robust regrowth in the spring.

Deciduous Trees

• Best Time to Prune: Late winter when the tree is dormant, as the absence of leaves makes the branch structure easier to see.
• Additional Tips: For flowering deciduous trees, prune after blooming to preserve next year’s flowers.

Evergreen Trees 

• Best Time to Prune: Early spring before new growth starts or mid-summer for light maintenance.
• Additional Tips: Avoid pruning in late summer or autumn, as this can stimulate new growth that won’t harden before winter.

Fruit Trees 

• Best Time to Prune: Late winter or early spring is the best time for most species, though some, like cherry trees, should be pruned in summer to reduce the risk of disease.
• Additional Tips: Prune to maintain an open canopy that allows light to reach fruiting branches and prevents overcrowding.

Young Trees 

• Best Time to Prune: Annually during dormancy for structural shaping.
• Additional Tips: Focus on removing competing branches to establish a strong central leader.

Signs a Tree Needs Pruning

Look for dead, damaged, or diseased branches, as well as overgrown limbs that may interfere with structures or block light.

Deciduous vs Evergreen Trees

Deciduous trees benefit from winter pruning when they’ve lost their leaves, making branch structure easier to see. Evergreen trees can be lightly trimmed almost any time but should avoid heavy pruning during periods of active growth.

Expert Tip: Summer pruning can be beneficial for certain species, such as fruit trees, to remove excess growth and improve airflow.

How to Prune a Tree Properly

Pruning a tree correctly requires the right tools, techniques, and understanding of tree structure. 

Follow these guidelines to ensure safe and effective pruning.

Tools Needed for Tree Pruning

• Hand pruners for small branches (up to 2 cm in diameter).
• Loppers for medium branches (up to 5 cm in diameter).
• Pruning saw for larger branches.
• Pole pruner for high branches.
• Protective gear, including gloves, safety goggles and a helmet for larger jobs.

Expert Tip: Always clean and sharpen tools before pruning. Dirty tools can introduce disease, and dull blades can cause jagged cuts that harm the tree.

How to Make Proper Pruning Cuts

• Locate the Branch Collar: This swollen area where the branch joins the trunk is vital for healing.
• Use the Three-Cut Method for Large Branches:

1. 1. First Cut (Undercut): Make an undercut a few inches from the trunk to prevent bark tearing when the branch falls.
   2. Second Cut (Top Cut): Make this cut further out to remove the weight of the branch.
   3. Final Cut (Removal): Cleanly cut just outside the branch collar for proper healing.

• Angle Your Cuts: For larger branches, avoid straight 90° cuts, as they can trap water and debris. A slight angle allows water to drain, preventing rot.

Why bother with the first two cuts if the final cut removes the branch? 

Without the first two cuts, the branch’s weight can cause bark stripping, leading to wounds that are hard to heal.

Expert Tip: Any major cuts should be made just ahead of a lateral branch that’s at least 1/3 the diameter of the branch you’re removing. This promotes strong regrowth while preventing weak, competing shoots.

Steps for Pruning a Tree

1. Assess the Tree

Walk around the tree and observe its structure. Identify any problem areas such as:

• Dead branches that snap easily or have no new growth.
• Diseased branches with discolouration, fungus, or odd textures.
• Damaged branches that are cracked or splintered.
• Overcrowded or crossing branches that rub against each other.

Expert Tip: For deciduous trees, assess the structure during winter when branches are easier to see. For evergreens, use pruning to lightly maintain shape and health without over-thinning.

2. Start with the 3 D’s

• • Dead: Remove dry, brittle branches first.
  • Damaged: Prune cracked or storm-damaged branches back to healthy wood.
  • Deranged: Address crossing branches, water sprouts, and any limbs that disrupt the tree’s shape or balance.

Expert Tip: “Deranged” branches can also include parallel branches or those growing in odd directions that may cause issues in the future.

3. Choose the Right Tool for Each Cut

• • Use hand pruners for branches under 2 cm.
  • Use loppers for branches 2-5 cm.
  • Use a pruning saw for larger branches.
  • Use a pole pruner for high branches, but avoid overreaching.

Expert Tip: Wear gloves, goggles, and a helmet for larger trees or when working with heavy branches. Ensure tools are sharp and sanitised to prevent disease spread.

4. Make Proper Cuts Using the Three-Cut Method

• • Step 1: Undercut
    Make a small cut on the underside of the branch, about 15-20 cm away from the trunk. This prevents bark tearing when the branch falls.
  • Step 2: Top Cut
    Move a few inches further out from the undercut and saw from the top until the branch falls. This removes the branch’s weight, reducing strain on the final cut.
  • Step 3: Final Cut
    Make a clean cut just outside the branch collar. Avoid cutting into the collar or leaving a stub, as this hinders healing.

Expert Tip: Aim for a circular wound that will heal evenly. Cuts at odd angles or flush against the trunk can compromise the tree’s recovery.

5. Prune According to Tree Type

• • Young Trees: Shape the tree by removing competing branches and focusing on a strong central leader. Avoid removing too much foliage to ensure healthy growth.
  • Deciduous Trees: Thin crowded areas and remove weak branches to enhance structure. Focus on achieving an even canopy.
  • Evergreen Trees: Prune lightly to maintain shape, as over-pruning can weaken the tree. Avoid removing more than 10-15% of foliage at a time.
  • Fruit Trees: Thin the canopy to improve light penetration. Remove old fruiting wood to encourage new growth.

6. Work Methodically

• • Start with the largest, most problematic branches first to open up the canopy.
  • Move to smaller branches, focusing on those that obstruct airflow or sunlight.
  • Step back frequently to assess progress and maintain the tree’s natural shape.

Expert Tip: Avoid climbing large trees without professional equipment or training. For high or hazardous branches, contact a certified arborist.

7. Aftercare

• • Inspect Cuts: Ensure all cuts are clean and smooth. Jagged edges can attract pests or diseases.
  • Remove Debris: Clear fallen branches and leaves to reduce the risk of pests or disease near the tree’s base.
  • Monitor the Tree: Check for signs of stress, such as wilting or sap leakage, in the weeks following pruning.

Identifying & Removing Problem Branches

Knowing which branches to remove is key to effective pruning. By addressing problem areas, you can improve the tree’s health and structure while preventing future issues.

Pruning problem branches helps:

• Prevent the spread of disease and pests.
• Reduce risks of falling limbs that can harm people or property.
• Support the tree’s structural integrity.
• Redirect energy to healthier parts of the tree.

Signs of Problem Branches

Look out for these indicators when assessing your tree:

• Dead Branches: Dry, brittle, no signs of new growth and unresponsive to seasonal changes.
• Diseased Branches: Discolouration, fungus growth, unusual spots or oozing sap.
• Damaged Branches: Cracked, split, splintered or broken from storms.
• Crossing Branches: Branches that rub against each other, causing wounds.
• Water Sprouts: Thin, vertical shoots that grow rapidly, drain energy and weaken the tree.
• Overhanging or Hazardous Branches: Limbs extending over property or power lines.

Expert Tip: For structural balance, ensure lateral branches make up at least one-third of the tree’s diameter where they meet the trunk.

Advanced Tree Pruning Techniques

For more intricate pruning tasks, advanced techniques can help shape your tree, improve airflow and address specific structural concerns. 

These methods are best performed with care and, depending on your skill set, may require the expertise of a professional arborist.

Crown Reduction

• Purpose: Reduces the overall size of the tree while maintaining its natural shape.
• When to Use: Ideal for trees growing too close to structures or power lines.
• How to Perform:

1. 1. Focus on reducing branch length evenly across the crown.
   2. Ensure cuts are made just above lateral branches that are at least one-third the diameter of the removed branch.
   3. Avoid excessive reduction, as this can stress the tree.

• Additional Tips: Avoid crown reduction for evergreen trees unless absolutely necessary, as it can alter their growth patterns.

Expert Tip: Heavy crown reduction may lead to clusters of weak competing shoots if not done properly. Aim to leave lateral branches that are at least 1/3 the diameter of the removed branch.

Crown Thinning

• Purpose: Improves light penetration and airflow through the canopy without altering the tree’s overall size.
• When to Use: For dense canopies prone to wind damage or foliar fungal infections.
• How to Perform:

1. 1. Remove select branches evenly throughout the crown.
   2. Focus on crossing, weak or overgrown branches while maintaining a balanced structure.

• Additional Tips: Avoid over-thinning evergreens, as their dense foliage is essential for their health.

Crown Lifting

• Purpose: Removes lower branches to increase clearance for pedestrians, vehicles, or visibility.
• When to Use: For trees near roads, pathways, or buildings.
• How to Perform:

1. 1. Remove lower branches gradually over time to prevent over-pruning.
   2. Retain branches that are essential for the tree’s structure and health.

• Additional Tips: Avoid excessive crown lifting in fruit trees, as this can reduce yield.

When to Call a Tree Surgeon

Advanced pruning techniques, especially for large or mature trees, require precision and knowledge. 

Consider hiring a certified arborist for:

• Large Trees: Pruning high branches requires specialised equipment and expertise.
• Structural Issues: Complex problems like crossing branches, heavy limbs, or unbalanced crowns need careful handling.
• Hazardous Locations: Trees near power lines, buildings, or roads pose safety risks.
• Diseased Trees: A professional can identify and treat issues without spreading the disease further.
• Advanced Techniques: Crown thinning, lifting or reduction often demand a trained eye and a steady hand.

Learn more about what a tree surgeon does and when to hire one, and how much it costs to hire a tree surgeon.

Common Tree Trimming Mistakes to Avoid

Pruning trees may seem straightforward, but common mistakes can harm your tree’s health and growth. 

Avoid these errors to ensure successful trimming.

• Over-Pruning: Removing too many branches stresses the tree, reducing its ability to photosynthesise and recover.
• Improper Cuts: Cutting too close to the trunk or leaving a stub can hinder healing and invite disease.
• Ignoring the Branch Collar: Failing to cut just outside this crucial area can damage the tree’s natural defence system.
• Using Dull or Dirty Tools: Unclean tools can cause jagged cuts and spread disease.
• Trimming at the Wrong Time: Pruning during active growth seasons can stress the tree and leave it vulnerable to pests and diseases.
• Topping: Cutting off the top of a tree to reduce height weakens its structure and leads to unsightly regrowth.
• Neglecting Safety: Attempting to prune large trees or use heavy equipment without proper training can result in accidents.

Tree Pruning FAQs

Q: How much of a tree can you cut without killing it?
A: It’s recommended not to remove more than 25% of a tree’s canopy in a single pruning session. Excessive pruning can stress the tree and impact its ability to produce energy through photosynthesis.

Q: What are water sprouts, and why should they be removed?
A: Water sprouts are rapid vertical energy-draining shoots, often growing from weak points on the tree. They disrupt the tree’s natural shape, divert energy, and may lead to structural issues if left unchecked.  Removing them early ensures the tree’s resources are used more efficiently.

Q: When is the best time to prune trees?
A: Late winter or early spring is generally ideal, as trees are dormant, reducing stress and promoting strong regrowth in spring.

Q: Where should you cut when pruning a branch?
A: Always make cuts just outside the branch collar, the swollen area where the branch connects to the trunk. This helps the tree heal efficiently and prevents disease.

Q: Can pruning paint help seal cuts?
A: While once popular, research shows pruning paints can trap moisture, leading to rot. It’s better to allow the tree to naturally seal wounds with wound wood.

Q: Is it safe to prune trees during the summer?
A: Light pruning in summer is fine for most species, but heavy pruning should generally be avoided as it may stress the tree and reduce its energy reserves.

Q: Should I hire a professional to do the pruning?
A: For large trees, hazardous branches, or complex pruning tasks, hiring a certified arborist is highly recommended to ensure safety and proper care.

If In Doubt, Call a Tree Surgeon

Pruning and trimming trees can be a rewarding task, but certain situations call for professional expertise. If you’re unsure about the best approach or are dealing with a particularly large or mature tree, it’s time to call a certified tree surgeon.

Our team of certified arborists brings years of experience and a passion for tree health. We offer expert tree pruning and trimming tailored to your trees’ needs. With a focus on safety, aesthetics, and sustainability, we’re here to help your garden flourish.

Ready to give your trees the care they deserve?  Contact Forbes Tree Care today for a professional consultation or quote!